Woo hoo! Wuhan!

Hello from one of the gates of hell -- this, according to our Chinese friends. How these people live in this sweltering heat and continue to be friendly is beyond us. In anticipation of our trip to the gong factory, we decided we needed more Chinese money, since we had to pay the interpreter, the taxi driver and hopefully buy some things at the factory.

Unfortunately, the trip to find money was more complicated than we thought. It began with a collaboration of hotel employees trying to tell us where the bank was, and to write it down in Chinese. So we headed out to go two blocks to a bank, in sweltering heat. It was a nice walk until someone set off firecrackers behind us,r startling us and the little girl who was walking near us. The bank couldn't help us, so we went back to the hotel. John Chen, our very helpful concierge, was surprised but sent us to a place further downtown. So we had to take a taxi. The doorman gave the address to the taxi driver, who proceeded to pitch a fit and argue very loudly with the doorman. Apparently they resolved it and off we went.

At the Customs building, a policeman stopped us at the door and turned us away. Another man pointed us to a bank a few buildings down. We went there and they said Patti could get her travelers checks cashed, but it would take 3 months. She declined. We kept walking.

Inside the next bank, where no one spoke English, a customer overheard us and dragged her high school-aged daughter over and pressed her in translating for us. The young woman was a bit shy about speaking to us in English but really did well.  She told us she was going to Canada in the fall and would be using her English there.  Very nice people but they sent us to even another ban down a nice pedestrian walk.  we were told to look for a bridge.  Finally we got to the Bank of China and they said yes!  What they didn't say was that it would take  an hour to get it.  Altogether it took about two hours to exchange money and we headed back to the hotel to meet Mr. Jia, our interpreter who would be going to the gong factory with us.

Wuhan, Part II

OK, so now on to the real purpose for our visit Wuhan - the gong factory that Patti wanted to see. With the help of he hotel staff (again) we had an interpreter and they arranged for a taxi that would take us to the factory which was "in the suburbs." Mr. Jia had called the factory to get directions. We loaded up in the taxi and set off.

One note here -- neither of us had any idea how big these cities are. And traffic is a mix of pedestrians, bicycles, scooters, cars and buses. Its a mystery how anyone survives.

Anyway, after getting into the suburbs, we realized the driver and Mr. Jia had no idea where we were going. They stopped and asked directions 3 or 4 times. Then, Patti suggested Mr. Jia call the factory and get directions, which he did. Apparently the factory didn't know where the factory is, either. Because after he hung up the phone, and we turned up what was loosely called a road, we had to stop and ask directions again.

Fortunately, the building number was written in Magic Marker on the outside of the building. Mr. Jia banged on the solild metal gates. A lady opened the gates and two big mangy dogs greeted us. We had arrived!

The gong factory family

They were very nice, gave us HOT green tea in the  9000 degree heat. We drank it like the polite Southerners we are, with sweat dripping down into our cups. Green sweat tea. Mr. Jia made the introductions and they took us a room about the size of Patti's closet to look at the instruments. They had a gigantic 4' gong which was very impressive and another flat 3.5' gong which was also impressive. There were another bunch of cymbals which a lady proceeded to demonstrate in that in room. It was incredibly hot, and the entire factory gong family was crowded into the room.

Inside the factory

Mr. Gao, the factory owner, explained that it was too hot for the workers, and it was also their vacation time. They get one week of vacation. That's so they could spend it in the hospital, recovering from heat exhaustion. No wait, that would be us. But he took us on a tour of the 100-year old factory. He told us that 4 generations of his family had made gongs.

We bought 2 Chinese symbols and 2 Chinese gongs. Patti was worried about the cost, which ended us being 812 yuan. When Patti pulled out her money, they said just 800 yuan would be fine. She pulled out her currency  exchange calculator and it ended up being $129. Sold!!! We got back in the taxi and came back. On the way back, Mr. Jia and the taxi driver pointed out a number of points of interest, including the first bridge across the Yangtze River in Wuhan, built in 1957 by the Russian people.

Now, we're off to visit the Hubei Provincial Museum in Wuhan, and then will fly to Xian later today. More pictures and video to follow.

Love to all!

Morning in Old Shanghai

We slept late today! We've finally adjusted to the time difference and slept until 8:00am. Hotel breakfast - and they remembered us from the day before - and then headed out to walk through Old Shanghai. It's not far from our hotel.

The first thing we saw was a beautiful old Taoist temple. It's still an active temple and while we were walking through, people came to pray and burn incense in the traditional way. The wood and statues of goddesses were quite interesting.

Very near the template was Old Shanghai City, with wonderful friendly people -- open air market with fresh vegetables, fish, chickens, ducks. Patti was trying to take a photograph of an older lady, and she invited us into her air conditioned shop to sit on the sofa and visit. Suddenly we were the talk of the neighborhood and people streamed into the shop to come see us. The people in this part of the city were the happiest we've seen - it was clearly a neighborhood and we felt welcomed into it.

We're back at the hotel now, packing to leave for Wuhan this afternoon. Hi to everyone! We love to hear from you and enjoy reading your comments. This technology is great -- helps us feel close to home and our friends and family.

- Patti & Leanne

Finally, a full day of being tourists

The living room of our 2 BR apartment in Shanghai

The day started really early -- we woke up at 3:00(Patti) and 4:00 (Leanne). Not really so unusual - sunrise here is at 5:00 and the sky was light at 4:00.

The hotel breakfast buffet was very good, giving us the strength to head out for the day.

Waiting in the rain to enter the Shanghai Museum

First tourist activity - the Shanghai Museum, home to a very significant collection of ancient Chinese artifacts. The highlight was seeing the 600+ bronze pieces, some dating back to the 21st century BC. Our personal docents were 2 college-age Chinese young men who befriended us while waiting in line for admission to the museum. They were thoughtful, articulate and perfect gentlemen.

4 hours later we had only seen a fraction of the museum. The closest lunch spot was the museum cafeteria. We were the only non-Chinese people there, an experience common to the day. Lunch was excellent, even though we didn't know exactly what we were eating. We're pretty sure there were no cats on our plate. Patti handled the chopsticks with less finesse than she would have liked.  The good news - she didn't drop anything on her shirt today! 

Our hotel is in a fairly non-tourist section of Shanghai. We walk out onto older, narrow Shanghai streets lined with small shops. We have felt completely safe on the streets, even at night. For dinner we picked another local restaurant; Three Travelers. We were at a loss as to exactly what we were supposed to do. Each table was equipped with a gas burner in the middle. A very nice waitress helped us order and soon brought a huge ceramic pot to fit the hole in the table. They lit the burner and that stuff got hot in a hurry. Again, nothing but chopsticks and a spoon. But we managed and it was delicious.

Of special note: they serve huge bottles of beer here.

The capper to the day -- a motorcycle taxi ride to the Bund section of town, along the Huangpu river. Spectacular at night! And to end the day -- a gin and tonic in the hotel bar, watching a Beyonce video. 

We are tired beyond description... and now, on to Day Two!

Ernest translating for Leanne

Our big stewpot dinner adventure 

The beautiful Bund at night, on the Huangpu River.

Finally. Shanghai

A quick note to let you all know that we have finally arrived at our hotel in Shanghai. We are somewhat road-weary, but hopeful that a good dinner and a good night's sleep will restore our adventuresome-ness. More later.

Side trip to Detroit!

A cool fountain in the Detroit airport. Nice airport.

Dumping fuel so we could land in Detroit.

Hello from Tokyo!
Well, Delta has been the great airline that we all know and love.  Mid flight today we get an announcement saying that one of the two air-conditioning units has gone out and we have to land in Detroit and get another plane.  Of course that little side trip and having to wait for the third pilot to get there caused us to sit in the Detroit airport for several hours.  You know wha'ts coming......  missed our flight from Tokyo to Shanghai.  So here we are spending the night in a Radisson hotel (compliments of Delta) and having a late dinner (also compliments of Delta) and leaving tomorrow for Shanghai and the completion of the first leg of our trip.  Traveling is an adventure! -Patti

At the Gate!

Most of the people in the US are at Hartsfield-Jackson today. Seriously. A big shout-out to some young servicemen who let us jump ahead of them in line to get our bags checked. Whoever thinks the youth of America are going to seed, think again.

We are finally at the gate, catching our breath and only slightly cranky from staying up all night. Patti has been dispatched to forage for food... and with apologies to my doctor, I'm having a McDonalds quarter-pounder.

In just 17 hours, we should be walking off the plane and into our big adventure. Hugs to all! -Leanne

Can we just get on the plane?

I'm exhausted. All this shopping and planning and packing... I can hardly wait to sit down on the plane and get some rest. If the US economy takes a big dip next week, it's because I have suspended the trips to Dillards, Container Store and REI.

But my bags are packed -- one suitcase to check (a svelte 36#) and one day pack to carry on the plane. Patti arrives in Atlanta tomorrow night and we leave on Saturday!

A big "thank you" to my well-traveled friends who have provided excellent advice. Another heartfelt "thank" you to my Chinese friends and colleagues who suggested places to go and made calls to China on our behalf -- Menglin, Ganpu, Phon Chu, Cheryl.

The travel counselor award, though, goes to Stefanie Chu -- who was quick to point out that our 4-city itinerary was the Four Chinese Gates of Hell in the summer heat. And that only Americans would be insane enough to go there in the summer. Thanks, Stef!!!

Now, back to the Mandarin Chinese podcasts... ~Leanne

Concentration is Slipping

I'm trying to work. I really am. There are several items on my must-do-before-I-leave work list. But goodness gracious it's hard to focus.

My friend Susie calls this the "Oh look... there's a bunny" syndrome. My bunnies are in the form of shopping lists (cat food, dog food), to-do items (hepatitis shot, travelers checks) and residual packing doubts (enough? too much?)

The clock is ticking towards take-off!

Must. Focus.   ~ Leanne

Control and the Lack Thereof

It's always a dilemma - picking the right photo gear for a trip. Striking the right balance between image quality and being a pack mule -- tricky stuff. I've been obsessing over this -- which camera, which lenses, which camera bag. I packed and unpacked 2 camera bags and then went out and bought a THIRD one, and packed and unpacked it.  I've talked about the subject endlessly and it's beginning to drive Patti crazy. Tonight, I realized why I'm such a mess over it.

In 6 days, Delta Airlines is going to transport us exactly halfway across the world, and on arrival I will become functionally illiterate. I had been able to read and write since I was 3 years old. Its something I take for granted. In China, I will be dependent on the hospitality and kindness of strangers for assistance in doing the most basic things that require literacy -- find a taxi, find the bathroom, find our hotel... find a Starbucks.

What does that have to do with camera gear? Well, I'm all balled up over something I can control, which is an outlet for my underlying anxiety over all the unknowns that await us in China -- things that I cannot possibly control. My mind is running absolutely amok.

I guess the only sane thing to do is to let go, trust that we will be OK, and enjoy the adventure.  And I do love a good adventure. ~ Leanne

8 Days and We're Outta Here!

Today went to the American Express office and ordered some Chinese yuan to take with us on our trip which starts A WEEK FROM TOMORROW!  Just a few little errands to finish and we are on our way.  Now we are trying to pack without taking too much.  We also bought a cute little video camera at Best Buy so we can video our trip too!  Can't wait!